Broome offers something for every visitor – camel rides on Cable Beach, exploring Chinatown and discovering its pearling history are just a few stories this town can share with visitors. Beautiful beaches set against red landscapes serve as the backdrop to a vibrant community that includes Chinese, Japanese, Filipinos and West Australians alike.
Their story is one of hardship, exploitation and hope.
Convicts
Broome is located two-and-a-half hours by air from Perth and boasts an exotic pearling past that pervades this north Western Australian town. Now, however, its vibrant multicultural society includes residents from China, Japan, Malaysia and the Philippines who have combined with Yawuru people to form a relaxed yet welcoming culture. You’ll still find reminders of its past pearling glory such as Chinatown’s stunning Pearl Showrooms or art from Aboriginal artists at any number of galleries throughout town.
Roebuck Bay was officially opened as a pearling port in 1883 by Governor Sir Frederick Napier Broome and officially established as a township by Governor Sir Frederick Napier Broome the same year. Settlers exploited indigenous people from this region by forcibly employing them on pearling luggers or camps where pearl diving occurred, often in conditions which included shark attacks, cyclones and decompression sickness – with death rates estimated to reach as much as 50% amongst divers in these terrible conditions.
Pearling attracted workers from around the globe and eventually, Broome became a township with shops and houses established. Prior to this point, Broome could only be reached via sea.
In the early 1900s, an undersea cable reached what is now Cable Beach and completely altered everything. By connecting east and west coasts through this means of communication, Cable Beach unlocked global markets for northern-western economies.
World War II saw many residents of Broome being interned due to fear of Japanese attack. This was particularly difficult for its Japanese citizens whose ancestors had lived here for millennia – you can still find signs of this internment on low tide beaches by searching for sea plane skeletons stored here.
Broome is home to the SUNY Broome Community College, founded after WWII and dedicated to offering students an exceptional learning experience and serving as an employment hub in the region. As it stands today, this is the only institution of its kind in New York State.
Settlers
Broome offers stunning beaches, gorgeous sunsets and centuries of Aboriginal art that come together to form its alluringly distinct culture. Additionally, its spectacular gorges, rugged sandstone formations and lush waterfalls create a natural wonderland experience in Broome that cannot be rivaled.
Cable Beach’s 22 km of shimmering white sand shores make it one of the top attractions in Broome. Perfect for relaxing afternoon strolls along its length, Cable Beach also features coconut palm swaying gently in the breeze and stunning turquoise seas – making for an idyllic spot to read a book or take camel rides along its stretch of beach.
Broome’s foreshore now hosts an important statue that draws our attention back to an often forgotten part of its history: on-shore women who helped pearling during the late 1800s and early 1900s. Most pearl divers were indigenous Australians tricked into slavery for this hazardous work; their careers often being cut short due to cyclones, sharks, crocodiles, chest infections, beriberi or bends which could put paid to many careers in pearling.
Broome was built upon the pearling industry, and this legacy still pervades throughout its heritage today. A visit to the Historical Society Museum can help visitors gain more insight into this aspect of Broome history; situated within an attractive 1890s general store and featuring captivating visual displays, photographs and artefacts.
Broome families have strong links to various cultural groups who have settled here over time, including Yawuru Aboriginal people as native title holders (Broome Growth Plan 2015). Families of European descent come from Sri Lanka, India, Malaysia and China – their contributions can be seen at events like Shinju Matsuri (the “Festival of Pearl”) where Japanese, Malay and Chinese traditions come together beautifully.
Broome’s vibrant culture continues to define its vibrant identity and is celebrated at festivals and restaurants across town. A stroll through its boutique shopping centre can reveal contemporary craft breweries and wineries such as Matso’s, which produces quirky beer flavors such as cucumber and mint; Kanagae Estate makes mango wines; both are sure to keep visitors intrigued!
Pearling
Broome was built upon the prosperous pearl shell industry of the 1900s. Luggers required many workers – divers, tenders, captains and crew members from Malay Chinese Japanese Filipino backgrounds as divers tenders captains crewmembers as the town became increasingly multicultural over time.
Due to the bustling pearling industry, the town quickly developed into a large port supporting a fleet of pearling boats. By 1910, it had become the world’s largest pearling center employing over 400 luggers; but this hazardous yet lucrative job often caused exhaustion as divers would bring in over one thousand dollars each day!
Pearl masters needed a steady source of labour, so they hired indentured workers from Asia on three year contracts at low wages for long hours of hard labor at low pay. Tight controls were maintained over their movements by pearl masters; no worker could leave without permission and had to return home at the end of each contract period.
Though these regulations were stringent, the pearling trade relied heavily on Asian labor; this was evidenced in its population. Chinatown became a center of activity with opium dens, brothels, and gambling houses offering their services to local residents; many Koepangers or Manilamen couldn’t afford these establishments and lived on the outskirts of town in squats or tents to survive.
Pearling also attracted high level government officials. Sir James Fitzroy, then Governor of Western Australia, visited in 1916 and was impressed with both the work being done by local Aboriginals as well as progress being made by pearling industry.
Pearling remains an integral component of local economics today and serves as a focal point of culture, cuisine and heritage in this historic town. Every year, the Shinju Matsuri festival pays homage to this rich history by honoring it through commemorative displays at various local sites.
World War II
At the outset of World War II, Broome was an bustling pearling town teeming with European and Asian immigrants from across Europe and Asia who settled permanently within its community. Up to 400 pearling luggers lined Roebuck Bay at once; its population reached over 4000; boarding houses, gambling dens, and brothels were filled with people from various parts of the globe; divers were predominantly Aboriginal while crews for pearl luggers consisted of mixed nationalities.
Pearling was risky work, with tales of mutinies and shipwrecks ever present in pearling history. In 1924, the pearling lugger HENRY was wrecked off Kimberley’s northern region; Captain Reddell and his son were among dozens of casualties, but her crew managed to scuttle the vessel before setting sail in dinghies for Broome.
Pearling employed around 10,000 workers at its height, most of whom were Aboriginals. Government-sponsored gangs started work around 7am either on government-owned luggers or at private master workshops – hours were spent underwater collecting shell with fatality rates as high as 50%!
Then came the Great Depression, an era of economic distress worldwide in which money was scarce and inflation high; all while 50 nations battled one of history’s deadliest wars.
Broome became known for its anti-British and anti-German sentiments at this time, which was evident among its residents. Yet despite this tension, the town became an important base for pearlers from Japan and China – giving birth to its unique mix of cultures which visitors can still witness today in Chinatown, with aromas of Chinese food drifting through its streets while exotic music filling shops and bars.
Broome boasts both an intriguing past and stunning natural beauty, from its crystal clear turquoise water, majestic sunsets and endless white sandy beaches like Cable Beach. Travellers visiting Broome can discover more of its heritage by downloading the Jetty to Jetty app which takes users on a self-paced walking tour through historic sites in Broome; for more on pearling visit Willie Creek Pearls Visitor Centre for further insights into local pearling industry practices.